Wine with Leslie: August wine bargains

Nov 03, 2023

Pic: iStock

August is only halfway through and I’m already quite broke after an expensive couple of weeks including the Engineer’s birthday and a weekend away.

I gather I’m not alone in this with the radio and papers filled with stories of high prices on everything from school uniforms to Taylor Swift tickets.

With this in mind, my column this week recommends six bargain wines from Spain, still the best value wine producer with remarkable consistency across all price ranges.

I have noticed significant price increases in wine generally this year, especially from France and regions like California and Australia.

Most of this is the hangover from the pandemic which led to increased prices on everything winemakers need from packaging to labour to glass bottles.

Add in challenging harvests due to the effects of global warming, increased distribution costs and inevitably prices on shelves have risen.

I know one independent off-licence which has a section for wines under €10 and they tell me that they have had to find a whole new range of wines as many wines that sold for €10 two years ago now cost €12 and €13.

Fizz seems to be particularly badly affected with Champagne more expensive than ever and one Crémant de Bourgogne I like (and have mentioned here) increased from €27.95 to €32.95 - an increase of €5.

Meanwhile, Cava and Spanish Sparkling prices seem to be faring better, for now anyway.

There will be some Autumn wine sales to talk about next week and it might be advisable to stock up a little as I suspect Christmas will be an expensive one this year.

Just make sure to lock the wines away so you don’t drink them - I recommend locking the cupboard door and giving the key to a neighbour!

Besides Spain, you should also look to Portugal for quality wines at good prices and as usual avoid the glamorous regions which charge more because of their name.

A wine from Alicante, Valdepeñas, Alentejo or Sicily will almost always cost less than one from Rioja or Tuscany.

Having said that I recommend some supermarket bargains from Rioja and Ribera del Duero today along with a couple of whites from North West Spain - all punch above their price points.

Wines Under €15

Cune Gran Reserva Rioja 2013, Spain - €11.50

Stockist: Dunnes Stores Nationwide

A bargain price for Cune Crianza - most other multiples have it for €15. Bright red and black fruit aromas with background allspice notes, ripe and juicy on the palate with a touch of cedar and vanilla.

The Gran Reserva is on offer at €18 and has creamy mature fruit flavours with a touch of fresh tobacco and spice on the finish.

Luzón Finca La Solana Tinto, Jumilla, Spain - €10.00

Stockists: O’Briens Stores nationwide, www.obrienswine.ie

Luzón is a family-owned producer and always a bit of a bargain in O’Briens.

This is 100% Monastrell and has pleasing soft dark fruit flavours with cinnamon and spice notes and balancing acidity.

The Luzón NAS (no added sulphur) Organico version is also recommended - its plum and berry fruits are even softer.

Rós Rosé, Navarra, Spain - €12.71

Stockists: O’Briens Stores nationwide, www.obrienswine.ie

This rosé was created by O’Brien’s Wine Director and resident Master of Wine Lynne Coyle along with Alicia Eyaralar of Bodegas Tandem in Navarra (whose own wines have appeared here more than once).

Made from wild ferment Garnacha with distinct strawberry aromas, ripe red fruits on the palate with more raspberry flavours coming through, taut and crisp on the finish.

Wines Over €15

Oro de Castilla Verdejo, Rueda, Spain - €18.00

Stockists: JJ O’Driscolls Ballinlough; Bubble Brothers English Market

By now you probably know that I consider Verdejo to be much underrated as a grape and deserving of more fame (similarly Godello).

This is a lovely example that I think is making its debut here - citrus herbal aromas, zesty and fresh with texture and ripe fruits and a delightful zing of bitter-lemon character on the finish.

Granbazán Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain - €17.95

Stockists: O’Briens Stores nationwide, www.obrienswine.ie

I don’t think I’ve mentioned this particular Albariño before but it is one I’ve presented at tastings a few times.

From the Salnés sub-region which is a little cooler with more Atlantic influences - peach and pear aromas, textured and layered on the palate with mineral, salty, citrus acidity on the finish.

Protos Crianza 2017, Ribera del Duero, Spain - €22.00

Stockists: Dunnes Stores; independents.

This is on special offer in Dunnes Stores for just €22, a discount of a good €5 from most other shops.

Protos is an excellent cooperative in Ribera del Duero, located in Peñafiel near Valladolid.

Ripe dark fruit aromas - plums, blackberries - soft dark berry fruit flavours, lithe and supple on the palate. Perfect for a bbq grilled steak.

Spirit of the Week

1848 Apple Brandy, 42% ABV, 70cl - €45.95

Stockists: www.boanndistillery.ie; IrishMalts.com; Celtic Whiskey Shop; Independents

This excellent brand new apple brandy from Boann Distillery in Co. Meath commemorates the creation by French rebels of what was to become our national flag and its inaugural flying in Waterford in 1848 by the Young Irelanders.

The spirit is a blend of Apple Brandy distilled in Boann from their orchard of 6500 trees and Calvados Pays d’Auge from Château du Breuil in Normandy.

Aromas of just-baked apple pie and vanilla, fruity ripe apple flavours hit the palate first followed by spices (cinnamon, nutmeg), nuts and with a prickly pink-peppercorn zing of freshness.

Try this on ice or perhaps with a dash of ginger beer and a squeeze of lemon.