Why You Should Discover Chilean Pisco

May 18, 2023

Two Pisco expressions from Lapostolle

Pisco is a South American grape brandy produced in Peru and Chile. Pisco dates back more than 400 years. It is among the oldest alcoholic spirit made in the Americas and predates even Tequila.

Its place or origin is hotly contested, with both countries claiming the honor. Even with their proximity, Peruvian and Chilean Pisco is very different, utilizing different grapes and production processes and presenting alternative aroma and flavor profiles. Recently we sat down to speak with some Chilean Pisco producers about their Pisco and how it’s made.

According to Javier Marcos, Export Director at Pisco Capel, the grape varieties used to make Pisco in each country differ substantially.

He notes that up to eight varieties can be used in Peru. Negra Criolla, Uvina, Molla and Quebranta are considered non-aromatic. The latter, in particular, is used to produce musts with high alcohol content. Italia, Totontel, Moscatel and Albilla are more aromatic.

He notes up to 11 different varieties can be used in the Chilean case. However, most of the production comes from just three varietals, Moscatel and its main subspecies (Moscatel Rosado, Moscatel de Austria, Muscat de Alexandria), Torontel, and Pedro Ximenez.

Additional grape varieties include Chaselas Musque Vrai, Orange Muscat, Canelli Moscato, Moscatel Blanca, Moscatel Temprana, Moscatel Amarilla, Moscatel Frontignan, Moscatel Hamburgo, and Moscatel Negra.

The terms Muscat, Moscato, and Muscatel refer to the same family of grapes and reflect the country where that particular subspecies originated.

Moreover, according to Charles de Bournet, CEO of Chilean spirits producer Lapostelle, grapes intended for Chilean Piscos are grown primarily in the hot, dry climate of the Elqui and Limari valleys in Northern Chile. Peruvian Pisco is produced in the cooler and wetter regions (Departments) of Lima, Ica, Arequipa, Moquegua, and Tacna.

Vicuna (Chile): vines in the Elqui Valley, big region producing wine from Chile and Pisco. (Photo ... [+] by: Andia/Universal Images Group via Getty Images)

Chile’s Pisco-producing regions are characterized by pronounced diurnal temperature variations with “cool mornings and “hot, luminous afternoons” The cold Humboldt current off the coast of Chile generates cold, moisture-laden fogs that blanket the region each morning before it is burned off by the intense mid-day sun.

These conditions favor high sugar production levels while retaining acidity and offering extended hang times on the vines. It also minimizes disease pressure. The grape berries are smaller, providing a more intensely flavored fruit with a heightened concentration of organoleptic properties.

The distillation of Chilean and Peruvian Pisco is also significantly different. According to Bournet, Peruvian Pisco is distilled once, typically in a traditional (ancestral) pot still, and the spirit is collected at casking strength with little flexibility to “cut heads or tails from the heart cut or add water to reduce the strength of the distillate.”

On the other hand, Chilean Pisco is distilled two and sometimes three times using the traditional Charentais still used in Cognac. The extent of the heart cut is left to the discretion of the individual distiller. Per Bournet, “the distillate can be collected at any strength, even as high as 90% ABV, and diluted with demineralized water to the desired casking strength.” Only copper pot stills can be used.

Another significant difference is that Chilean Pisco can be bottled either aged or unaged. Traditionally, Peruvian Pisco is bottled unaged following a minimum three-month resting in a non-reactive glass or steel container.

In Chile, aging is either in barrels of American or French oak or in casks made from Rauli, a variety of beech indigenous to Chile. Bournet says Lapostelle ages its Pisco in new French oak barrels and previously used casks from Cognac.

Piscos from Chile and Peru are also classified differently. According to Marcos, Peruvian producers classify Pisco based on the grapes used in production. Single grape variety expressions are classified as “Puro.” Multi-grape variety Piscos are classified as “Acholado.” Mosto Verde, the third classification, is produced from interrupted fermentation before all the sugar in the must has been converted to alcohol. The partially fermented must, including skins and seeds, is then distilled.

Pisco production at factory, Elqui Valley, Chile, South America

In Chile, Pisco is classified according to its alcohol content. Corriente, or traditional Pisco, is bottled at 30% ABV. Especial is bottled at 35% ABV, and Riservado at 40% ABV. Gran Pisco is the classification used for Piscos bottled at ABVs higher than 40%. Transparente is the term used in Chile for unaged Pisco. Most Chilean Piscos on the market, both domestic and export, are bottled at 40% ABV.

Even though they share a common name, Peruvian and Chilean Piscos offer very different aromas and taste profiles. Below are tasting notes on a selection of Chilean Piscos available in North America.

Lapostolle, Pisco, 40% ABV, 700 ml. $35.

The Pisco is crystal clear. On the nose, it has the distinctive floral aromas that Muscat distillates are known for, particularly white flowers, rose petals, jasmine, and orange blossom. There are also fruit notes of apple, Japanese pear, and a bit of orange and tamarind zest. There is a mild spiciness and a distinct steely minerality.

On the palate, the Pisco is viscous and oily with a smooth, velvety, mouth-coating quality. It’s slightly herbal with a pronounced anise note, a touch of licorice, ripe orchard fruit of apple and Japanese pear, and some lemon grass.

The finish is long and smooth, with a touch of sweetness and lingering notes of orchard fruit and citrus.

Lapostolle, XO Pisco, 40% ABV, 750 ml. $50.00

The color is rich, dark copper with a distinctive orange hue.

Like its unaged sibling, the XO Pisco is crafted from Muscat grapes. It has many of the same aromatic floral notes but also aromas of vanilla custard and well-seasoned wood.

It's smooth and creamy on the palate, with the same weighty, mouth-coating quality as the unaged Pisco. It offers notes of orchard and tropical fruits, creamy vanilla, a bit of butterscotch, and some well-seasoned oak wood.

A distinctive but well-integrated spice note features cinnamon, some baked ginger, and a hint of black pepper. It has the same element of minerality, but the influence of the cask wood overshadows this.

Two rocks glasses filled with pisco sours and garnished with lime wedges on a bar top. This cocktail ... [+] is made from Peruvian pisco liquor, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg white shaken together and topped with a couple dashes of bitters. The tools and ingredients used to make the drinks are in the background.

The finish is exceptionally long and sweetish, with lingering notes of ripe orchard fruit, butterscotch, and cinnamon. The Lapostolle XO is often described as “Cognac inspired.” Although the aroma and taste profile are entirely different, it offers up the finesse and nuance of a fine Cognac and can be used as such.

The term XO indicates a longer than typical aging among Chilean Pisco producers. The length, however, is undefined, and no specific rules govern its use.

Alto del Carmen, Pisco Reservado, 40% ABV, 750 ml. $21

The Pisco is produced in the Huasco, Elqui, and Limari valleys of Northern Chile, adjacent to the Atacama desert. The Pisco is aged 6 to 8 months in casks of American white oak.

The color is light gold/straw.

It’s very floral, on the nose, with distinctive fruit and grape must aromas. It’s slightly herbal, with notes of wood spices, some light pepper, and a hint of caramel and vanilla.

It’s smooth and satiny on the palate, with the mouth weight that Chilean Pisco is known for. The initial sweetness gives way to a slight, lingering, bitter note accompanied by ripe orchard fruit, stone fruit, and a touch of tropical fruit. There is a distinctive cinnamon note and a mild but persistent pepperiness.

The finish is exceptionally long and surprisingly dry, with lingering notes of peppery fruit. This sophisticated, elegant spirit showcases the layered nuance of well-made Chilean Piscos.

Peruvian Piscos tend to be more rustic, with earthy, intense, funky aromas, while Chilean Pisco tends to be lighter and more refined. Think of the two showing the same type of contrasts as, for example, Armagnac/Cognac, Mezcal/Tequila, or Jamaican/Barbados rum.

If you are unfamiliar with Pisco but enjoy brandy and other fruit-based spirits, then Chilean Pisco is well worth exploring. Though technically brandy, these aromatic, unctuous, fruit-forward spirits offer a unique aroma and flavor profile that will quickly convert you into a Pisco enthusiast.

Cheers